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Tire Change: Part Three–The Rim

Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Continuing from Tire Change: Part Two, and no, this is not a cooking show; although I have found a slightly used plastic cutting mat to be an inexpensive and durable material for making rim protectors. You just cut three 5- to 6-inch-wide strips, fold them in half lengthwise and then fold again crosswise–double the thickness, double the protection.

Now, wet the bead on top really well with diluted dish soap so it can slide off from under the rim more easily. With the rim protectors positioned just between the rim and the bead, insert the hooked ends of the tire irons between the rim protectors and the bead, hook the bead with both tire irons and pry the bead up and over the rim. Repeat this procedure with one of the tire irons remaining stationary while moving the other, bit by bit, prying up the bead until the bead is completely over the rim.

This is a close-up as you begin to free the tire from the rim. Pay special attention not to push down on the disc rotor in any way.

Pretty close to getting one side done as my cat Tora watched on.

After one side of the tire is done, just flip it over and repeat the same procedure on the other side. It may get super tight at the end but if you just work smart, bit by bit, you can get it done. The satisfaction of getting something done right with your own two hands is priceless.

A bare rim spells success! The new tire above (150/70-13) looks really gigantic when compared with the stock-sized tire down below (130/60-13).

ATTENTION! VERY IMPORTANT! Now, look carefully at the photo below. The arrow (on the side of the tire) indicates the correct rotational direction of the tire as it moves forward. Double-, triple-check to make sure it matches the correct side of the rim.

From here on, the tire mounting is basically the same procedure as the removal except in reverse order. Get the (protruding) spoked side in first will make it easier later as you flip the wheel over (since the disc rotor never touches the ground).

Keep the bead soapy wet and slide the rim in at an angle.

The spoked side of the rim is in. Now, flip it over and do the other side.

This part is always the most challenging; but it can be done. (Oh, boy! Am I tired! )

Get ready to Pump It Up!

Happy Time! The mounting part is done. Even if you have a floor pump for bicycle, I would not expect you to use it. Pay 50 cents to use the electric pump at the corner gas station. Believe me, it would be a lot easier. (I am just doing it to demonstrate that it can be done with a floor pump. Watch out for that cylinder on the pump because it’s gonna get HOT!) Either way, as you pump up the tire, you should hear two loud POP’s–signifying that you have got two tight seals between the beads and the rim. Continue to fill air until the proper pressure is reached–and you’re DONE!

I will continue next time with the final installment in the seriesTire Change: Race To The Finish.

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18 Comments leave one →
  1. pierre permalink
    Friday, March 13, 2009 9:33 pm

    Hello,
    i need ur help so bad please! if u can?
    im using a 130/60-13 on my GY6 and im triying to buy the 150/70-13..
    u think the tire well fit on the rim?? someone told me that its too big for the rim!! and i can see that you using the same 130/60-13.
    what you think about this? and if u can tell me how many inches is the 150/70-13 tire from end to end or maybe the height of the tire from the ground to the end of tire.
    thank you so much and very nice work you did for ur bike, can’t wait to do the same!

  2. pierre permalink
    Friday, March 13, 2009 9:36 pm

    or maybe any info about the size of that tire…. like how wide is it? or anything please..
    thx again

  3. Friday, March 13, 2009 10:34 pm

    Hi, pierre

    What kind of scooter have you got with this GY-6 engine? Technically, the bigger 150/70-13 tire should fit over your existing rim; but the key is to make sure that you’ve enough clearance for the wheel to move around the back end. OK, the tire is 5.75 6-inches at the widest cross-section and the overall diameter is 20 22-inches when inflated. Use those measurements as a guide because most likely you will have to do some modifications like I did. This is a BIG tire!

    Make sure you read the final part of the tire series.

    Lorenzo

  4. pierre permalink
    Friday, March 13, 2009 11:59 pm

    you mean 20” from the tire tuching the floor to the top of the tire??
    i have a GY6 180cc scooter sport bike , they copy it from Gelira DNA..
    i wanna put a photo so you can see it here but dnk how!???
    i think im okeay with the width 5.75, but im not sur about 20”! i have to measure it tomorrow and let you know, and yeah let me know how to post a pic here.
    thank you

    • Saturday, March 14, 2009 11:24 am

      I think you can post a link to the photo’s url here; but not the photo itself.-Lorenzo

  5. pierre permalink
    Saturday, March 14, 2009 12:22 am

    hmmm im confused now! lolll i did measure the 130/60-13 that i have on my bike and its 5.75 width and about 20 high??
    maybe im drunk lolll

    • Saturday, March 14, 2009 11:27 am

      Hi, pierre

      I would like to correct the measurements to 6-inches and 22-inches, respectively. The errors were discovered after a re-measuring today. Sorry for the confusion.-Lorenzo

  6. pierre permalink
    Saturday, March 14, 2009 12:14 pm

    XD..man i can’t wait till i do this on my bike…if you right about the 6” and the 22” i may not have to do a lot of work i hope so
    here is the link to one photo, see if it worksw:

    that’s wify on the scooter …

    • Saturday, March 14, 2009 12:31 pm

      That’s a nice bike under a pretty wife 🙂

      Good luck and don’t be afraid to do some mods, ’cause that will give you a chance to solve problems. Did I see a rear mudguard on that tire? If there is then I’m afraid it will have to go… See if you can get a normal-sized Diablo for the front, too, while you’re at it. americanmototire.com and denniskirk.com are two good places with good low-price policies to start shopping.-Lorenzo

  7. pierre permalink
    Saturday, March 14, 2009 12:46 pm

    Here is 3 more photos :


    yeah im using the 130/60-13 for the front and rear , so im thinking on puting the 150/70 rear and 130/70 front maybe, and u can see i still have the stock air box! im puting a air intake there and geting maybe a red CDI and orange coil for now… this may take couple weeks but its okeay i think i will be happy after all XD.
    thanks Lorenzo and if you see the photos and you have any idea’s for me!? let me know

  8. Saturday, March 14, 2009 1:06 pm

    Gotta love reverse-engineering! That’s a really cool-looking machine, man.

    There’re a few more 13″ Michelins to choose from here. Other mods, if $ is no object, perhaps a nice pipe to up a little performance and a lotta good looks (battlescooterstore.com), oh yeah definitely a K&N style filter (red), and put the license plate to the left (to show off the Diablo)…that’s about it!

    Where’re you at? New York, Boston, or Canada? Scoot Happy Where Ever You Are!!

    Lorenzo

  9. pierre permalink
    Saturday, March 14, 2009 1:24 pm

    im in new york, and yes money is low right now 😦 so its ganna take a while for me to get Done… its a long way for me, but the only thing i worry about is to fit the Dialo.. the rest of the stuff is easy for me and yeah a nother thing is in my air box i have a nother tube going to the engine? so i got a small filter for it ! is that right??
    i think is the engin brider…

    • Saturday, March 14, 2009 1:40 pm

      A K&N-style (cone filter) intake would be good but you should get one appropriate to the 180cc engine. Look around.-Lorenzo

  10. pierre permalink
    Saturday, March 14, 2009 4:04 pm

    how do you know if the CDI is restricted? mine go up to 10.000rpms but my max rpm is 12.000! you think mine is restr..? i was reading some forums and ppl said if below 8.000 rpms ite restrected !? that make me think that mine is okeay maybe?

    • Saturday, March 14, 2009 4:45 pm

      Sorry, I don’t believe that I’m qualified to answer that question, unfortunately. Have you done any work to derestrict the transmission, exhaust, or the reed valve?

      Lorenzo

  11. pierre permalink
    Saturday, March 14, 2009 5:37 pm

    no problem i understand im only trying to understand if mine is okeay or i have to buy a nother one!… but i just think that if my rpms go up to 10.000 its okeay ill just change the coil and leave the CDI a lone, i was looking in the variater and there is no washer! so i dant know what i can do to deres.. the exhaust or any of that stuff..but like you said you not qualified to answer some of my questions, then ill just do what i can do and that’s it 😦
    by the way im a nooby and this is my first bike
    thank you

  12. Wednesday, November 9, 2011 10:16 am

    Pumping up an automobile tire – 185/65/14 – only 100 – 150 pumps to 32 psi.

    Leaking valve stems – someone forgot to replace the valve stems with the tires!

  13. Sunday, June 10, 2012 5:35 pm

    I found this whole guide really helpful. However, the hardest part for me was sealing the bead on my tubeless tires. I couldn’t do it. I tried the rope/rachet/belt trick but my tire was too thin. I even tried the idiotic fire method I saw on YouTube. Finally I took them over to Firestone and they did it for me for $5. I’m sure a lot of tire places will do it for something similar.

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